Berluti Fashion Show - Menswear Spring/Summer Collection 2018 (with interview)

Designer: Haider AckermannAtmosphere: The exterior court of the Monnaie de Paris.Collection: The second collection designed by Haider Ackermann, working around a new elegance for a sensual yet urban wardrobe. Supple materials, and soft colours.Focus on: Trousers with contrasting stripes, elasticated waists and legs tightened at the ankle. Or another version, straight-leg trousers with darts and a fold on the front. The jackets with rolled up sleeves, a shimmering suit worn close to the skin, and slide-on sandals which emphasize the sensation of chic nonchalance.The suit jacket is worn with a t-shirt underneath. The fine and delicate knits.Note: The female looks comprising trousers and long coats, suggesting a unisex fashion.Interview Lou Doillon: I have always loved Haider, it’s true that there’s such an elegance about his work. It’s terrible, but it’s the only word I had for each look that passed; I said to myself ‘such elegance’. There’s always an element of absolute fluidity. Something amazing that I love is the unisex aspect, we can all wear the clothing, and everything is exchangeable. It’s great when you see the duo on the runway, the boy and the girl. At the end of the day, it’s not a big deal, they’re the same clothes. There’s a beauty, and these amazing nuances, there are amazing blues which are absolutely divine and other incredible colours that I love. And there’s still an amazing structure, like the line that follows the leg, or even the fabrics, the touches of leather which awakens something more normal. A clothing item, about which there are very different conceptions, but there’s still a desire to wear the collection, a desire to embrace those who wear it. And that’s what the clothing is. And there’s something about it which lets you be, and live, you feel that the bodies are free, which is particularly important.There is no rigidity, there is not a fight between the clothing and the person, and it is true that, yes, we want to wear them but we may very well just want to embrace the boy who wears them.Music of the show (only to be used in the context of the show, protected by the right to information)

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